Top Monster Thai Constellation – Guide to Intensive Care 2025 recent dramatic drop in prices of Monster Thai Constellation means that plant parents have been lucky enough to finally tick this holy grail off their wish list. While care for Thai nakshatra is certainly not the same as their all-green Monsters cousins, the good news is that if you have a Monster deliciosa that thrives, you’ll find that Thai nakshatra have some similarities.
Top Monster Thai Constellation Easy, but not easy peasy
The good news is that Monstera Thai horoscopes are surprisingly easy to take care of with a few simple precautions, especially once you’ve settled into your period. Monster Thai Constellation should say ‘easier once you get to know them better’ but it’s a quick learning curve.
It’s also very easy to kill them with kindness, or whatever you think is the right thing to do, especially if you don’t already have any Monstera, and especially if the first month or two passes after you bring them home. Unlike their all-green Monstera friends, Thai nakshatras are less drought tolerant, slower growing, and more sensitive to light, temperature, moisture and fertilizer. Unfortunately, I have found Thai Nakshatra to be more prone to root rot than any of my many other Monsteras, much like the delicate balance required to keep Pineapple healthy.
But they also share some common care requirements like other monstrosities. My big boy Monstera Deliciosa is called Frank (Frankenstein – Monstera…Monster…Frankenstein? You get it). So if you have your own Frank that you’ve kept happy, you’re already one step ahead. Can you make Thai Nakshatra more diverse? Unlike the chunkier variety of Monstera albo, the Thai constellation has more mottled and dull colors, and thankfully also has stable variations (which albo does not).
This means that your Thai horoscope will maintain this beautiful variation. Bonus? What one leaf does, won’t change what the next leaf does (again, not the case with Albu). Your Thai will not return to full green leaves! Trust me, Thais really want to be diverse.The Thai variety also has a more creamy, yellowish white than the bright white of the elbow, so it has a more creamy yellow color than white. More light helps bleach it, and older leaves may turn lighter over time, but the albos usually don’t have a bright white.
Some are more yellow than others, as illustrated below by Costa Farm’s controversial announcement that they will have a Thai bridge coming in 2022 that got everyone excited that prices will drop drastically (spoiler alert). Wala Alert: This has never happened).You can still get those beautiful large sectoral patches on a thai variety like albo.
Also, just because your Thai arrived with large patches of different colors doesn’t mean it won’t get them, as the variations are in the cells, not stem-dependent like albos.From my own experience, I’ve found that baby Thai leaves tend to be more jagged and mottled, and as the plant and leaf size mature, you’ll see a variety of larger, cleaner areas and more. Chances of ‘spreading’ are low. Individual plants are quite different.
What is the best potting mix for Thai Nakshatra?
Light, light, light. No sunlight. I’m talking about a light, free-draining mix. Don’t make the mistake of putting your Thai right into the pot mix. It’s not a big one. Too dense. Talk about inviting root rot!I personally guess at the right potting mix, and use pre-made soil-free arid mix for me. What I use is a pre-mixed combo of orchid bark, fern fiber, pumice, horticultural charcoal and more. No belly. No soil. There is no slow-release fertilizer (more on fertilizers to come).
For those in New Zealand the one I use is called Bio Leaf Aroid Medium Blend. Bioleaf also makes an extra chunky, extra airy, free-draining mix especially for variegated plants, but I find my Thai doesn’t prefer it that dry so I still use it for mine. I keep their medium arid mix. I’ve also experimented with the mounting TC in the Leca and it’s a big tick for this combo. I hope it will be just as successful in Poon because of the extra protection both substrates give you against root rot.
If you prefer potting mix like I do, you can certainly DIY your own mix. Just keep in mind that you want plenty of air space for the roots, and err on the side of free-draining mediums that have only low to medium water retention. Nothing is fine, dense or compact.Orchid mix, succulent mix, bark, perlite, fern fiber, pumice, you get the idea for free-draining substrates. Personally, I prefer a soil-less mix for mine, but if your conditions are very dry, you may want to consider water storage.
No drainage layer!
Don’t fall for the myth of adding a ‘drainage layer’ to the bottom of the pot under the soil. I used to do the same. Turns out this creates a water table that actually increases water retention, moving the water table closer to the roots! Adding a drainage layer increases the risk of root rot (here’s why if you want to know the science).
Instead, you want to use a well-mixed, free-draining mix on the way down. You can use potting mesh if you prefer (if you’re looking overseas, you’ll want a potting mesh like this), to keep soil from coming out of the drainage holes, but remember Keep in mind that this is usually only the first or second water. Wash some fine material from the mix. After that, a good chunky arid mix shouldn’t wash anything off when you water.
How and when to repot the Monstera Thai Nakshatra.
When it comes time to report, don’t, unless necessary. This applies to other plants like the Esperanza which also benefits from minimal disruption. Only kidding (sort of) repot if you really have to, especially if the substrate stays wet for a long time . Unless there’s a good reason, it’s best not to tell your new arrival too soon. Rookie mistake I think we’ve all made. Adjusting to a new environment is enough to cope with the stress of repotting above transport (I usually wait about a month until the repot is healthy). no reason).
One reason I will mention right away is poor soil. If your Thai is not in proper soil, something that is fine or compact and stays wet for a long time, I would look again very soon. Look for signs of root rot due to water retention. For commercial nurseries and growers, this mixture often does not work well under normal home conditions. You don’t need to make a pot of one size, just get rid of the soil and give it a better mix for your situation, it’s fine to go back to the same pot.
PRO TIP: Before reusing a container, clean it with hydrogen peroxide (for those in NZ) to help kill any bugs, fungi or bacteria that may be lurking, including those that Causes root rot. For my international plant friends you want to look for 3% hydroghydrogen peroxide (like this Essential Oxygen 3%). When repotting, look for any soft or tender roots. If you notice any questionable roots during the repotting process, cut them off and give the remaining roots a hydrogen peroxide bath to eliminate any root rot.
When you pot, go up in pot size by just an inch, or a few centimeters (for example, from a 14cm to a 16cm wide pot). Too much growth too early can (at best) stunt or slow stem and leaf growth while your plant diverts its energy to root growth to fill all that new room – Or (worse) this large increase causes root rot. In soil that holds more water than the roots. If and when you repot, use the tips in the Guide to Repotting for a quick recovery with minimal stress and complications.
Water requirements
If you are a heavy drinker, Monstera Thai Constellation is 100% not the plant for you. No need to raise a helicopter here. Time to change your watering practices. Think lightly moist, not wet.Overwatering is worse for Thai than underwatering, just like the delicate water balance required for plants like the Coreopsis to thrive. Root rot is your enemy (and unfortunately Thai and root rot go together). But I’ve found they’re not as tolerant of drying out as their green Monstera Deliciosa cousins, so you need to find the right balance.
I would wait until the potting mix is about half to 3/4 dry before watering again, rather than completely dry. If you’re worried, an inexpensive water meter provides peace of mind because you can easily push the probe down to check below the surface.
If you are not in New Zealand, you can get the same here. Susty is the kind you can leave in your plant and tell at a glance what moisture levels are low at the root surface because they change color as the substrate dries out. Total game changer. A cheap investment not to fill such an important element of caring for these people.
Remember when you water, over-watering is not over-watering, but over-watering. When I water, I always soak the substrate thoroughly to ensure that the roots are not lost. If some of the roots become tall and dry, you may have dry rot. This is when some of the root hairs dry out and die. Then the next time you water, you get root rot.
The right vessel
Depending on how diligent you are about watering, you can go for terracotta. If you make the mistake of ignoring it and end up underwater.
